Protests against overtourism in popular centres in southern Europe have highlighted the damage done to the lives of ordinary inhabitants, explains Chris Bambery 

The British media reported with bemusement that thousands of people had taken to the streets of cities in southern Europe on Sunday to demonstrate against overtourism, firing water pistols at shop windows and setting off smoke bombs in Barcelona, where the main protest took place. ‘Your holidays, my misery,’ protesters chanted in the streets of Barcelona while holding up banners emblazoned with slogans such as ‘mass tourism kills the city’ and ‘their greed brings us ruin.’ 

The protests in Catalunya, Portugal and Italy were called by Sud d’Europa contra la Turistització (SET), Catalan for ‘Southern Europe against Overtourism’ which opposes uncontrolled tourism because it has sent housing prices and rents soaring, forcing people out of their neighbourhoods. ‘We cannot live in this city. The rents are super high because of BnBs and also the expats who come and live here for the weather,’ Marina explained to the BBC. Her homemade placard declared, ‘Your AirBnB used to be my home’. Other signs called for a ban on the giant cruise ships that dock here, with one announcing that over-tourism is ‘killing’ the city. ‘Our goal is not to stop tourism, because it’s also good, but to have it at a normal rate,’ Marina said. 

Barcelona saw fifteen million visitors to the city last year, almost ten times the local population. ‘We’re not against individual tourists, it’s about how we’re managing this,’ Elena, a young marine biologist, said. ‘Young people can’t afford living here or even normal things like coffee that are all really expensive for our salaries.’ 

The BBC also interviewed the eighty-years-old Pepi Viu who had just been evicted from her home of almost a decade, in a popular neighbourhood. She believes the owner wanted to earn more by short-term lets to tourists. She is now in a hostel, looking for a new flat to rent but prices have soared almost 70% since she last rented. ‘I can’t find anything – and there’s no support. I feel like I have no protection and it’s upsetting,’ she says, frail and leaning on a stick. ‘There’s only tourist flats now, but we residents need somewhere to live!’ 

I have visited Barcelona often in recent years for work, political activity and to meet friends. For some time, I have tried to avoid the city centre, the Rambla and Gothic Quarter in particular, because of the sheer number of British, American, German and others on hen and stag visits. I like a drink myself but am left wondering, why you would go to Barcelona just to get drunk? 

On one visit, I was walking on the hill of Montjuïc having visited the graves of CNT leader Buenaventura Durruti, killed in the battle for Madrid in 1936, and Lluís Companys, President of Catalonia, handed over by the Gestapo from his French exile to be executed in the castle of Montjuïc. 

As I walked, I became annoyed by a constant buzzing sound. Eventually I worked out it was the generators on the cruise ship in the port below. They bring almost zero economic benefit as people eat and sleep on the ship. Now, when I return to my native Edinburgh, I also avoid the city centre much of the time for the same reason. It too suffers from cruise liners. 

Writing in Travel Weekly, Steve Riley, owner of a UK-based travel agency, attacked the Catalan protesters, saying: ‘Some of the protests – particularly those in Catalonia – are politically charged, led by Catalan groups campaigning for independence and the recognition of Catalonia as its own nation within Spain.’ Oh dear! How awful! 

Actually, growing numbers of Catalans are worried about the effects of mass tourism on their language. If you work in Barcelona’s tourist and entertainment industries, English is essential. Catalan itself is being pushed out in much of the city. 

Venice 

The threat of tourism to normal life in Venice hit the headlines because billionaire Jeff Bezos is marrying Lauren Sanchez, a former TV journalist, in the city. The wedding party will take over the whole island of San Giorgio opposite St Mark’s Square for three days. Guests will stay on the Amazon owner’s super yacht, worth about $500m (£371m), which will dock in the port of Venice for the wedding. 

Protesters are deeply concerned about the ‘privatisation’ and ‘exploitation’ of the city. ‘He is basically going to treat the whole city as a private ballroom, as a private event area, as if the citizens are not there,’ said Alice Bazzoli, an activist with No Space for Bezos. 

The wedding party will close parts of the city making everyday life difficult for residents. In addition, there are environmental concerns about such super yachts using the canals. ‘This is not what Venice needs. This is not what a city that is already suffering from overtourism needs,’ explained Federica Toninelli, another activist  with No Space for Bezos, said, adding: ‘It’s going to bring money, yes, but we are not going to see any money.’ 

Venice suffers from a lack of affordable housing and a dwindling local population in Venice’s historic centre. There were about 50,000 people living in the historic city centre in 2023, and about 4.9 million tourist arrivals! Venice was once a city of 120,000 inhabitants in the 1950s. 

‘Do we want our city even more invaded by tourists, by oligarchs, and people who buy and privatise the city, or do we want services, jobs, health services, schools, universities? Do we want to live in the city like normal people, or sell it to the best offer?’ Alice Bazzoli asked. 

Mass tourism increases the cost of living for locals and creates low-paid, often  temporary employment. Much of the money generated goes to Airbnb, travel companies and cruise-ship owners. 

Sustainable tourism? 

Edinburgh sees nearly five million visitors each year, a number expected to rise. Crowded streets, increased traffic, noise, and the impact on housing prices are fuelling a backlash there. In Cymru, more than 660,000 visitors climbed Eryri (Snowdon) during 2021. There were large queues at the summit almost every day in summer. That created problems of litter and parking, while the cost of repairing footpaths ‘can’t be sustained in the long term,’ says Gwynedd Council. There are problems with fires started by tourists and damage to local wildlife. 

Jonathan Williams-Ellis is chairman of Snowdonia 360, a group which represents visitor attractions in north west Wales, and believes businesses had a good year in 2021. ‘But Snowdon is being hammered, and that’s just not right,’ he argued, adding that, ‘A better, greener transport network may be part of the solution, and reduce the number of times people in places like Beddgelert and Llanberis find their village clogged up with cars. ‘We need to look at ways to get visitors to explore other areas of north west Wales and to come at other times of the year as well.’ 

All of this is before we come to second homes for holidays which mean locals cannot buy or rent, and the influx of mono-English-speaking residents, threatening the future of the Welsh language. 

There is also climate change. When I was in Barcelona in an unusually hot September, there were severe water shortages. Mass tourism sucks up water. Add into that, golf courses. Much of Spain is already becoming a desert, because of climate change and rural de-population. Mass tourism is simply not sustainable, nor can we rely in future on Spanish fruit and veg. 

The Catalan government is trying to promote environmentally sustainable tourism, encouraging walking and cycling and trying to get tourists to visit other parts, not just the beaches and Barcelona. For travelling to Catalunya, I have looked into going by rail. The fare from Paris to Barcelona or Girona is reasonable, then comes Eurostar! I would prefer the train but funds dictate a budget airline, which is ridiculous. Often, it’s cheaper to fly from London to Scotland than to get the train, which is just as quick to Edinburgh or Glasgow. 

Tourism brings benefits but at a certain point the numbers involved reach a tipping point where the economic benefits reverse. It is also of huge benefit to discover other cultures, languages and cuisine and to experience the history and architecture of Barcelona, Venice and Edinburgh but tourism needs to be sustainable and environmentally friendly. Enjoy you summer holidays and think on that. I will in Catalunya!